Lismore - 2 day sea kayak trip

The circumnavigation of Lismore island was my first experience of Scottish sea kayaking. I repeated it late last year and despite having done three years kayaking since I first did it, it still remains one of my favourites.

It's shelter from Atlantic swell, has plenty of landing opportunities and an interesting varied coastline, this makes it an excellent weekend route and if the conditions allow ideal for less experienced kayakers.

The best place to start is from the small beach just north of the jetty at Port Appin. On both occasions I've done this trip I've paddled south down the east side of Lismore, but there's no reason why you couldn't reverse it. Whichever way you choose to go when you leave the shelter of the jetty you go straight out in to the narrowest section of Lynn of Lorn, there's enough tide here to make progress hard work, so plan this well.

 Lismore from Port Appin

The east coast of Lismore is green and very pleasant and interspersed with historic sites and the odd deserted farm to explore. As you paddle south you pass several islands where you're sure to see common seals, landing is also possible so these make an ideal lunch stop.

 Eilean na Cloicher, Lismore

The first time I did the route we spent the night at the Dun Cbruban at Dainarrow, there's some great camping spots just below the ruined farm buildings.

Paddling south down the island you eventually come to the narrow tip and the lighthouse on Eilean Musdile. From here you look at across to Mull and down to Kerrera. If there's a strong winds or a spring tide expect this to be bouncy.

A rough ride round on my first trip to Eilean Musdile Lighthouse. 

Between the lighthouse and Lady's Rock is a strong tidal race, this can create rough conditions especially when the wind is against the tide. Eilean Musdile is only an island at high tide, so there's a cut through which is accessible at high to mid tides, so if there is a strong wind forecast I would definitely plan to use this.

Lighthouse on Eilean Musdile and the tidal race from the Barra ferry

After a few kilometres north is Bernera Island, at mid to low tides you will have to go around the outside of this or do a short portage. Beyond the island is Achandun Bay which makes a good campsite. On the hill behind the bay is Achadun Castle, this is definitely worth a visit, if only for the fantastic views.

Campsite at Achadun Bay

 Achadun Castle

The west side of the island has a slightly wilder feeling and is interspersed with low cliffs and rough grassland. If the conditions allow try to get as close to the cliff line as possible, because the walls are a magnet for sea urchins and star fish.

West coast of Lismore

The islands and skerries beyond Glas Dhuim headland are well worth spending some time looking around you'll find friendly seal colonies, otters and plenty of birds to watch. The beaches around Port Ramsey are definitely worth a visit.

Port Ramsay, Lismore

Once you've exhausted the skerries, either head east and straight back to port Appin or if you've more time definitely consider carrying on around Shuna and Castle Stalker.

If you have started from Port Appin be sure to stop at the Pier House pub. They do a great range of pub food & beers in the bar and if you get back mid afternoon be sure to order one of their fantastic scones.

Heading back to Port Appin and the Pier House for a well earned beer

Summary

You won't be disappointed by this trip, it's fantastic island with a varied coastline which is well worth a visit.

Additional information

Distance
Day 1 25.28km
Day 2 15.26km
Tides
The tides between Port Appin and Lismore are strong enough to need considering in your planning. The tide race south of the Lighthouse at the end of the island can cause rough conditions.
Swell
Although it's not open to the Atlantic don't underestimate how quickly westerly winds can easily create very choppy water. In westerly winds clapotis can be a problem on the west side of the island.
Access
There's parking both in the ferry car park and on the roadside. This gets very bus at the weekends so be sure to arrive early. If the parking is full you can also start from the layby on the A828 North of Shuna.
Camping
There are plenty of camping spots on the southern end of the island. Watch out for ticks as there's lots of livestock on the island.
Other recommended routes
The shorter tour around Shuna and Castle Stalker makes a good short day or evening option and combining them all is good for stronger paddlers.
Other information
The Pier house bar is definitely worth a visit http://www.pierhousehotel.co.uk

If the weather really lets you down or you have a non kayaker in your party, you could take the foot ferry over and explore Lismore by foot. http://www.calmac.co.uk/destinations/lismore.htm